Mekhela Chador: The Soul of Assamese Attire
The most iconic traditional dress of Assamese women is the Mekhela Chador also called as Mekhela Sador. This two-piece attire is as elegant as it is symbolic.
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Mekhela: The bottom part, similar to a sarong or a wrap-around skirt, is worn by pleating it gracefully around the waist and tucked in.
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Chador: The upper part is a long piece of cloth draped across the upper body, somewhat like a saree's pallu.
Unlike the saree, which is one long piece of fabric, Mekhela Chador comes in two distinct parts. It is traditionally made of handwoven silk or cotton, and the draping style gives the wearer a regal and poised look.
Varieties of Mekhela Chador Based on Fabric
The traditional dress comes in various fabrics, each associated with different occasions:
1. Muga Silk Mekhela Chador
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Known as the "Golden Silk", Muga silk is exclusive to Assam and shines with a natural golden luster.
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It is a prized possession, often worn during weddings, Bihu festivals, and formal events.
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Muga silk is durable and becomes more lustrous with every wash, making it a timeless heirloom.
2. Pat Silk Mekhela Chador
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Softer and lighter than Muga, Pat silk is pure white or off-white.
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Ideal for summer wear and religious functions due to its purity and elegance.
3. Eri Silk Mekhela Chador
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Also known as Ahimsa silk, it is eco-friendly and warm, often worn in winters.
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The texture is soft, and it has a matte finish, used mostly for everyday wear in traditional households.
4. Cotton Mekhela Chador
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Comfortable and affordable, cotton Mekhelas are widely used for daily wear.
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They come in various colors and motifs and are still handwoven in rural Assamese villages.
Weaving and Motifs: A Cultural Art Form
Assamese women traditionally weave their Mekhela Chadors at home using handlooms. These weaves are often enriched with regional motifs such as:
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Kolka (paisleys)
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Gach (trees)
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Dhol (drums)
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Jaapi (traditional hat)
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Phool (flowers)
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Moonga (peacocks)
Each motif tells a story of life, celebration, harmony, or divinity.
Occasion-based Dressing
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Bihu Festival: Women wear vibrant red-and-white Mekhela Chadors with traditional motifs and accessories like Kopou Phool (orchid flower) in their hair.
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Weddings: Brides often wear Muga silk with heavy golden thread work (Zari). The elegance of this attire adds to the bride's charm.
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Everyday Wear: Cotton or Eri silk Mekhelas in subtle colors are preferred for regular use in both rural and urban households.
Jewellery and Accessories
The traditional attire is beautifully complemented by Assamese jewellery, such as:
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Junbiri: Crescent-shaped pendant
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Dholbiri: Drum-shaped earrings
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Gamkharu: A large gold-plated bracelet
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Loka Paro: Twin pigeon-shaped earrings
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Keru: Long cylindrical earrings
These ornaments are mostly made of gold or gold-plated silver and are integral to Assamese women's identity.
Modern Adaptations
Today, designers are experimenting with Mekhela Chador to blend tradition with contemporary aesthetics. Silk Mekhelas are now seen in pastel colors, fusion drapes, and are even worn with crop tops, shirts, or jackets, giving them a global appeal while preserving their roots.
Young women, both in Assam and abroad, are proudly embracing this attire during weddings, college events, and cultural festivals.
The traditional dress of Assamese women is not just a fashion statement it’s a living heritage passed down through generations. It reflects the spirit of Assamese culture modest yet radiant, simple yet rich, rooted yet progressive. Whether handwoven by a mother for her daughter or bought as a mark of pride, the Mekhela Chador continues to weave stories of grace, culture, and timeless elegance.
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